Brickhold Installation

MATERIALS:

NECESSARY TOOLS:

• Wheelbarrow
• Garden Hose
• Measuring Tape
• Gloves
• Wooden Stakes
• String
• 3-5lb (1-2km) Hammer
• Hack Saw
• 4' (1 meter) level
• Chalk Line
• Square End Shovel
• Tin Snips
• Hard tooth garden rake
• Trowel
• Stiff bristle push broom
• Pry Bar
• Eye and Ear Protection
• Dust Mask
• 6'-8' (1.83-2.34 meter) 2x4 or 2x6 board
• 1" (25mm) diameter screed guides (can be electrical conduit or pieces of wood)

RENTAL:

• 3hp to 5hp Plate Compactor
• Hand Tamper
• Block/Paver Splitter or Masonry Saw

PLANNING THE INSTALLATION

Call the utility companies to locate positions of any underground lines. Layout the project area using a garden hose to create the curves and stakes with string where straight lines are desired. Draw a plan, showing all dimensions. A supplier will help determine the proper amount of supplies required to complete the project from the drawing. The square footage of the project is determined by multiplying the length by the width. When calculating the number of pavers add 5% to the square footage to allow for cutting and breakage. The base should extend 6" (15cm) beyond the project area. To determine the number of pieces of Brickhold paver edging needed, measure outside perimeters, not to include footage that abuts a permanent structure, such as a house or driveway. Divide the lineal footage by 7.

EXCAVATION

Find a perpendicular line by using the 3-4-5 triangle method, (if project abuts a solid structure use as one leg of the triangle). Using stakes and string make a straight line (perpendicular to the solid structure) using the other leg of the triangle as a guide. Measure out from this line to establish the excavation area (adding 6" (15cm) - 10" (25cm) in each open side) marking site with stakes every 4'-6' (1-2 meters) and 12" (30cm) outside of the proposed edge. Check area to be sure it is square, measuring each set of cross corners for the same exact distance. Remove sod/dirt with a square end shovel to a depth of at least 5 3/8" (14cm). Depth is determined by adding paver depth, 1" (25mm) course sand, and compacted base. A minimum base depth for light traffic area is 4"-6" (10-15cm), and 8" (20cm) or more for driveways and other medium traffic area. New construction has the potential for settling next to the foundation; increase the depth of the excavation by at least another 2" (5cm) within 2 feet (61cm) of a new foundation. Slope excavations next to structures such as a house or driveway away from the structure ¼" (6mm) per foot (30cm) try not to exceed ½" (13 mm) per foot (30cm). Check the slope by adding a 1 ½" (4cm) thick piece of wood to the bottom of a 2x4 board 6' (1.8 meter) long or a 2" (5cm) piece to an 8' (2.4 meter) board. Place a level on top of the 2x4. Make adjustments as needed to the site. The excavated site must be smooth.

PREPARING THE BASE

Use a base material that ranges in size from ½" to ¾" (13-19mm) gravel to fine dust. The varying sizes create a solid base when compacted. Begin compacting by starting at the outside edge of the excavated area overlapping each pass by 4" (10cm) working inward. (Make sure the soil doesn't stick to the bottom of the plate tamper.) Use a hand tamper in areas where the machine cannot reach. Spread approximately 2" (5cm) of base material evenly over the site area with a hard tooth garden rake. If the base material is dry and dusty dampen with the garden hose. This makes the base material compact faster and is easier to rake. Compact the base material in the same manner as described above. Make at least two complete passes for each layer. Use the hard tooth garden rake to smooth out any unevenness. Repeat this process until the base is the required thickness. The finished surface should be very smooth and flat. By lying a straight edge flat on the surface there should be no more that ¼" (6mm) maximum gap anywhere along the straight edge and base. Recheck the slope. Invest the time to prepare the base properly; the success of this step will insure a good looking and longer lasting installation.

BRICKHOLD PLACEMENT

Find the center point of one dimension of the design (for a free standing project) or of the hard structure dimension. Establish a perpendicular line by using the 3-4-5 triangle method. Mark with a chalk line. Measuring from the chalk line, establish the perimeter of the design using spray paint or chalk-line. Secure Brickhold in place along chalk line, using C\," (9mm) diameter, 10" (25cm) long spikes every 2 feet (61cm) on straight runs. Do not drive the spikes all the way in until each side is in place. If any adjustments are needed it is easier to remove the spikes that are not set in place. To install Brickhold along a curve, place along the line, pounding spikes into the spike supports as needed to hold the desired curve. Make connections before the last support is anchored. Curves are created with Brickhold by clipping along the guide-lines, which are located between the spike supports. To achieve a moderate radius, clip on the center guidelines. A tighter radius is accomplished by cutting on the two side guide-lines. For very tight curves the frost lip can be removed. For best performance leave the frost lip attached whenever possible. Brickhold can be installed before or after setting the pavers, but it is suggested that at least one side be anchored before setting the pavers. Cut excess material with a hacksaw. Once the Brickhold is set in place, go back and finish driving in the spikes. Do not damage the upper edge of Brickhold or drive the spike through the spike support. If this occurs, replace any damaged piece, failure to do this will compromise the installation.

SAND BED

Note: It is important to keep the sand dry. Keep the sand covered in case of rain. Do not attempt to level any surface area irregularities with the sand. The result will be an uneven surface or unwanted settling. Place the 1" (25mm) screed rails 4'-6' (1.3-1.8 meters) apart and parallel to one another. Screed 10' (3 meter) sections at a time. Shovel sand into area to be screed. Using the 2x4 or 2x6 board on end, work the board side to side to spread the sand and strike off the extra. Remove the screed rails. The indentations left when the rails have been removed can be filled and a trowel used to smooth the sand as the pavers are set. DO NOT walk on or work from your screeded sand.

PAVER PLACEMENT

Begin from a fixed or permanent point such as the house or Brickhold. As you start laying pavers, work from right to left, then left to right and so on, one row of pavers at a time. Set pavers lightly onto the sand, never press them or hammer them in. Be sure to allow 6" (15cm) on each open side of the base to install Brickhold later. Check pattern for straightness every 4' (1.3 meters) or so by running a string line across the front of the laying edge. If there are some pavers lagging behind go back about 3 rows and using a small pry bar, wedge between the pavers and pry pavers forward until they are in line. Do not worry about gaps at this point. Tamping will even out gaps. Set the pavers hand tight, but do not hammer to adjust or set them. Continue screeding the sand and setting pavers in 10' (3 meter) sections until completed. Cover entire area with plastic if it will sit incomplete overnight.

CUTTING THE PAVERS

Pavers will need to be cut as they meet unmovable obstacles or where a radius is desired. If the side opposite the starting point is open, cutting won't be necessary (except ½ pavers in pattern). Mark the pavers with chalk, crayon or marker, allowing up to ¼" (6mm) gap between the paver and the edge. Paver can be cut with a hammer and chisel, a paver splitter or a diamond blade mason saw. For safety purposes use ear and eye protection and a dust mask.

COMPLETING THE EDGING

If only the leading edge of Brickhold was installed earlier, now is the time to finish the installation. Use a trowel to cut straight down the side of the pavers through the sand and down to the base, then pull the sand away from the pavers. Take care not to scrape up the base material. Place edging flat to the base and push Brickhold frost lip under the sand, using a hammer tap against the back of Brickhold until the edging is tight against the pavers. Pound in spikes approximately every 2' (61cm), except in curved areas secure as needed, to hold tight against the pavers.

FINISHING STEP

The final step can begin once all pavers have been laid and Brickhold is in place. The final height occurs during this compaction. Pavers will settle ¼" (6mm) where 1" (25mm) of loose screeded sand has been used. Sweep off any debris or loose sand that may be on the pavers. Using the plate compactor make at least 2 passes over the pavers starting at the perimeter and working inward and overlap each pass by 4" (10cm). Make the second pass at a 45º angle to your first pass. The first pass levels the pavers by compacting the sand bedding course and forcing the sand up into the joints. Repeat the compaction if pavers are not yet level and flat. Sweep dry, medium or coarse, washed sand for the joints, with a stiff bristle street broom in a thin layer back and forth over the entire pavement until sand has filled the joints. Alternating between tamping and sweeping, continue to work the sand into the joints. Continue to make passes with the compactor until joints no longer open up. Use a hammer and board to compact areas that cannot be reached by the compactor. Sweep off all excess sand and backfill edges with topsoil, sod or seed.